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• Training
Tips •
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Who is Training Who?
Training is a two-way street:
Buddy is just as involved in training you as you are
in trying to train him. The trouble is that Buddy is
already a genius at training you, a skill with which
he was born. Put another way, a dog comes into the world
knowing what is to his advantage and what isnt, and
hell do whatever he can to get what he wants. You, on
the other hand, have to discover the skills of training
him, just as we had to.
One of these skills is figuring out how to recognize
when youre inadvertently rewarding behaviors you may
not want to reinforce. Begging at the dinner table is
a good example. When Buddy begs at the table and you
slip him some food, he is training you to feed him from
the table. You need to ask yourself, Is this a behavior
I want to encourage? If the answer is no, then stop
doing it, no matter what.
Most dogs eventually ignore commands that dont lead
to tangible consequences. When he responds to a command,
reward him by praising him. If he chooses not to respond
to a command he has been taught, correct him.
Now look at another situation: Buddy has taken himself
for an unauthorized walk through the neighborhood. Youre
late for an appointment but dont want to leave with
Buddy out on the streets. You frantically call and call.
Finally, Buddy makes an appearance, happily sauntering
up to you. You, on the other hand, are fit to be tied,
and you let him know your displeasure in no uncertain
terms by giving him a thorough scolding. You now need
to ask yourself, Is this the kind of greeting that will
make Buddy want to come to me? If the answer is no,
then stop doing it, no matter what.
Here are two examples of how your dog is training you:
1. Buddy drops his ball in your
lap while youre watching television and you throw it
for him.
2. Buddy nudges or paws your elbow when youre sitting
on the couch and you pet him.
Buddy has trained you well. Is there anything wrong
with that? Not at all, provided you can tell him to
go lie down when you dont feel like throwing the ball
or petting him.
Knowing Your Attitude
One of the most important aspects
of training is your attitude toward your dog. During
training, you want to maintain a friendly and positive
attitude. For many people, maintaining this attitude
can be enormously difficult because frequently they
dont start to think about training until Buddy has become
an uncontrollable nuisance. Hes no longer cute and cuddly,
he has become incredibly rambunctious, everything he
does is wrong, and he certainly doesnt listen.
Don't train your dog when you're irritable or tired. You
want training to be a positive experience for your dog.
If you ever get frustrated during training, stop and
come back to it at another time. When youre frustrated,
your communications consist of no, bad dog, how could
you do this, and get out and stay out. Youre unhappy
and Buddy is unhappy because youre unhappy.
A better approach is to train him with firm kindness
so both of you can be happy. An unfriendly or hostile
approach doesnt gain you your dogs cooperation and will
needlessly prolong the training process. When you become
frustrated or angry, the dog becomes anxious and nervous,
and is unable to learn. When you feel that youre becoming
a little irritable, stop training and come back to it
in a better frame of mind. You want training to be a
positive experience for Buddy (and you).
This excerpt is from Dog
Training for Dummies by Jack and Wendy Volhard.
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•
Homework- Focus Foundation •
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Welcome! Here are the weekly handouts and my advice for each of
the 6-weeks of your Focus Foundation class. You and your dog will
get out of it what you put into it. Practice what you've learned
every day but keep it fun. Turn training into a game. Ask your
dog for something (such as a sit or down) before giving something
that he or she wants, such as a game of tug, dinner, a ride in
the car, a chance to go outside, some time on the sofa with you,
etc. Think of more things your dog likes and values and use them
as rewards.
Probably the single most important concept for you to know and remember is that training is all about building a relationship between you and your dog and providing or controlling consequences for the dog. It's important to remember that all animals repeat behaviors they find rewarding. Behaviors that are not rewarding in any way will fade and eventually extinguish. Dog- friendly training works by reinforcing desirable behaviors with praise, treats and play. Undesirable behavior is either not rewarded, prevented from being self-rewarding through appropriate management of the environment, or redirected into an incompatible activity that can reinforced/rewarded. Corrections, when indicated, are used to instruct rather than to punish the dog and are never physically painful or emotionally abusive.
I am very happy to have you in class! Let's get started.
Mindy Cox.
WEEK ONE
It may have been a little chaotic at the beginning of class since
this is a new environment with lots of distractions. You will
notice that the more distractions, the harder you have to work
on getting your dog to do things that he or she does well at home.
That's why I ask you to bring extra special treats such as chicken,
hot dogs, cheese, etc. cut up into tiny pieces (we will use a
lot of them in class). Next class, please start gaining your dog's
attention by playing Find It! as soon as you start to walk toward
the front door of Lucky Dog. If you see another dog, give it space
as there may be some dogs that are a little reactive to other
dogs. Either back up quickly and call your dog to you ( use a happy voice and be generous
in your rewards), or stop and continue to play one of the attention
games.
Here are some training tips:
Remember to keep training fun for you and your dog and stop before your dog wants to. Keep your dog happy and confident. Catch and reward your dog being
successful and stay positive. Ignore the times your dog is unsuccessful. Rewarding positive behavior will build trust and improve your relationship. Punishment erodes the relationship and in some cases may cause aggression.Make a list of what your dog values most (types of food rewards, play, petting, ride in the car, etc.) so you know how to reward.
Begin training at home in an environment that is not distracting. As your dog learns the exercise, slowly increase the level of distractions. Break training into small steps. Plan ahead. Have your tools ready before you begin (such as clicker and treats). Reinforce highly to maintain a positive attitude. Multiple short sessions are better than one long session (boring and tiring!). There are moments of training opportunities all during the day. Play and training should be indistinguishable to your dog. They both should be fun!Don't be afraid to act silly sometimes. Your dog will enjoy your playful attitude.Be sure your dog gets lots of exercise and environmental enrichment. A tired dog is a happy dog!
How awesome your dog behaves and
responds is totally up to you. The amount of motivation, ambition,
and standards you have will reflect in your dog's level of training
and attention to you. We will continue to learn a lot over the
course of the class. You will be amazed how much your dog can
learn in six short weeks!
Please keep me informed if you have any questions or I am not
covering the things you are most interested in. I am here to serve
you. If you need to reach me before class, please call 561-427-6700.
Please let me know by phone or email when you can't attend.
Name
Game
Play the Find
It Game
Clicker
Training
Clicker
Fundamentals
Rewards
List
Reinforcement
and Use of Rewards
Getting
Your Dog to Come
Teaching Leave It
WEEK TWO
The handouts will help you remember what we did in class and help
you to practice at home. Keep playing the Name Game, Find It and
Watch. Reward your dog when he or she offers you attention without
you having to ask. When you ask your dog for a stay, be sure to
use the release word you have chosen; it's not ok if your dog
makes the decision when to get up. Maintain your criteria!
Attention
Training and Name Recognition
Sit Happens
Teaching Down
Stay! Working on Duration
Exercise
Finished! Release Cues
Watch
Me
WEEK THREE
We added "stand" to our obedience commands and we continue to practice loose leash walking (which takes lots of practice to master).
If you are practicing at home consistently, you should now notice
that your dog is already making lots of progress. If you don't
understand any concepts we've gone over, please be sure to let
me know. Either give me a call or email me so that I can explain
anything you're unsure of. Many of you are successfully getting
your dog's attention at the beginning of class when they were
distracted. Nice work! Next week, please work on that as soon
as you get there with your Find It game and Watch.
By now you should not be using a treat to lure into a position.
If you still are, please phase it out quickly. Work on moving
into all six positions (sit from down and stand; down from sit
and stand; stand from sit and down) without your lure.
We are now adding distance to the stay exercise. Be sure not to go too fast too soon. Keep your dog successful. That might mean making it easier by not going so far away, or coming back and rewarding sooner.
Keep track of your pet's progress so you will know if you are
going too fast or if you can add in more challenges. If your dog
does an exercise correctly 5 out of 5 times you can make it slightly
more difficult. If he or she is right 3 or 4 out of 5 times, keep
doing what you're doing until it's close to perfect. If your dog
is only correct one or two out of five times, you need to make
the exercise easier.Always strive to keep your dog successful
so training stays fun and motivating.
We are now half way through class. Is there anything you specifically
want me to cover?
Basic
Obedience Skills
Loose
Leash Walking
Stand and Deliver
Stay! Going for Distance.
No Jumping!
Self Control Games
Nothing In Life Is Free: Easily fit training into your life
Targeting-
a Fun Game
Getting
Focused Attention
WEEK FOUR
Continue to work all 6 of your positions. Try rewarding after
your dog successfully completes two or three cues in a row such
as sit, down sit.
By this time you should not be luring (getting your dog in position
using a treat in your hand). If your dog is completely understanding
your commands and doing it the first time asked, and without a
treat in your hand, start adding in the name of the cue (such
as "sit").
Here are exercises to work on:
Ready...ready...Go! (holding dog back with hand on his chest)
and release to some treats that are several feet away. When the
treats are consumed, call your dog back to you. This should be
high energy and fun. You can also release to a toy and play a
game of tug (be sure you get to the toy quickly so that your dog
does not play keep away.
Recall with Treat game: With dog in front of handler, toss treat
about three or four feet to one side. Call dog immediately after
he eats treat. When dog comes back to handler, click and toss
treat to opposite side. Continue quickly from one side to the
other. Variation: toss treat and call dog. As he turns to come,
handler turns and runs (keep eye contact). Let dog catch up and
c/t (click/treat). Again, keep the game fun and stimulating.
Advanced Attention game: Show dog treat in hand, stretch arm out
to side. Do it with offered attention: wait until dog looks at
handler; to begin with click as soon as you get an eye flick to
your face. As he gets the idea of this exercise you can make it
harder by clicking with longer attention to you.
Continue to work on Find It, Leave It, Name Game, and Watch. Add distractions to your stay exercise.
Stay! Adding Distractions.
Shape,
Target, Lure. What's the Difference?
WEEK FIVE
Today we have fun with tunnels! Why do we teach our dogs to run through an agility tunnel? First of all, exposing your dog to something new in a positive way builds confidence. Second, everything we teach our dogs is enriching and builds our relationship with them. This is true for teaching tricks as well; I highly recommend it. Third, it's fun! 'Nuff said.
Continue to work on Leave It! Here's how:
We started with a treat under your shoe and your dogs began to
understand that they got the food by leaving it alone (you can
also cover it with your hand). They will either sit, look away
from the shoe, or take a step back. When they do this we reward
by either picking up the treat and giving it to them, or giving
them a higher value treat from our hand.
Then the treat was placed
near your shoe and the dogs got treated when they stayed sitting
and did not try to get it. If they make a move toward it, you
cover it with your foot. Your dog is always treated from your
hand.
We then up the ante by not rewarding until our dog looks
at us. Next step, we kneel down and drop the treat 6" from the
floor. Continue to click/treat (c/t) any correct behavior. Gradually
build to dropping the treat from a greater height, then start
throwing it farther away from your foot.
Remember, never release
to take the treat from the floor. Either give an equal or better
treat from your pocket, or pick up the treat and hand it to your
dog.
I play this game not only expecting my dog not to take the treat,
but I also expect my dog to look at me before I will c/t. You
can also teach leave it with toys; they leave it alone until you
give it to them for a great game of tug, or send them to get it.
As you know, the stay exercise has three components: duration, distance, and distraction. Let's put them all together!
Stay! Putting It All Together
Nothing
In Life Is Free #2: Keep practicing! There's always time to train if you incorporate it into your life.
WEEK SIX
Graduation! Job well done. Keep having fun with your dog and don't stop teaching and learning. Continue
to challenge you and your dog with new skills. Take another class.
How about Obedience II,
Rally, or Intro
to Agility?
Additional Dog Training Articles
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